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Gardiner Gooseneck Twist Valve

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Has anyone tried using the Gardiner Gooseneck Twist Valve?

I split the sections of my carbon pole a few months ago when cleaning it (I was cleaning it a few weeks ago and had all the sections leaning on a wall in the garage - big mistake as I tripped and fell into them and cracked all bar one of the sections ??).

I haven't got quite enough money to buy a new one so I've been using my old CLX instead. I noticed that I was getting arm and shoulder pain using the CLX with my swivel gooseneck, so I got a tip to go back to using the fixed gooseneck and the pain has gone (it's on one of squeaky clean Dave's old videos and it's definitely helped).

I was going to purchase a new univalve, but as the Gardiner Twist Valve Gooseneck is cheaper I thought I'd give it a try, and I have to say it's really good. It took a little bit of tweaking to get it right, but so far I'm very impressed. Because of it's design you wouldn't be able to use it with a swivel gooseneck, but if you are using a fixed gooseneck it will save you alot of water.
 
Yes I think so. When I've finished cleaning I turn the valve on and off again before I put the pole away, so that there's no pressure in the pole hose when (if you see what I mean).
What I liked about the fire service is it runs on common sense. I like things with little moving parts so I don't use a swivel just pole and univalve. I would run with cold water but I think hot makes me work quicker and gives a better clean in my opinion.
 
is it like peters old goseneck valve were if cleaning bottom windows it turns off and on or is this design better?
 
is it like peters old goseneck valve were if cleaning bottom windows it turns off and on or is this design better?
@tench0771 I'm not sure what the Peters valve is sorry. This one is a whole Gooseneck. I have it so that all my clamps are lined up when it's off. I extend the pole up to the window. Place the brush on the window and turn the pole about 1/5th of a turn clockwise and it turns the water on. I usually start on the top left of a window. When I'm finished cleaning it I'm usually on the bottom right, so while the brush is against the lower right of the window/frame I turn the pole back anticlockwise to it's original position and it turns the water off. Hope I'm explained it ok. Gardiner have a video on YouTube which explains it better ?
 
What I liked about the fire service is it runs on common sense. I like things with little moving parts so I don't use a swivel just pole and univalve. I would run with cold water but I think hot makes me work quicker and gives a better clean in my opinion.
I agree. The less parts to go wrong the better. I liked using a swivel gooseneck. It gets into loads of angles well. What I did find thought is that your hands and arms aren't always in a natural position when you're cleaning at an angle, so I think that contributed to what caused my arm/shoulder issues.
 
@Marko067 uses one of these with a swivel I do believe takes a bit of getting used I should imagine, I might order one if I could master it with the swivel like @Marko067
@Den yes possibly if you got the tension right. Haven't tried myself like that but I do like the valve itself anyway ?
 
@tench0771 I'm not sure what the Peters valve is sorry. This one is a whole Gooseneck. I have it so that all my clamps are lined up when it's off. I extend the pole up to the window. Place the brush on the window and turn the pole about 1/5th of a turn clockwise and it turns the water on. I usually start on the top left of a window. When I'm finished cleaning it I'm usually on the bottom right, so while the brush is against the lower right of the window/frame I turn the pole back anticlockwise to it's original position and it turns the water off. Hope I'm explained it ok. Gardiner have a video on YouTube which explains it better ?
Apologies I’ve not explained my self very well it’s same as Peter foggy one but slightly different as it has a adjustment screw . If your cleaning a bottom window with pole horizontal does it turn off and become a pain to use ?
 
Apologies I’ve not explained my self very well it’s same as Peter foggy one but slightly different as it has a adjustment screw . If your cleaning a bottom window with pole horizontal does it turn off and become a pain to use ?
@tench0771 no worries. I haven't had that so far. I have it adjusted just right at the moment (I hope). I tried it at various adjustments before finding what I hope is a sweet spot for it ?.
 
As Den says my daughter and I both use the gooseneck valve coupled with a swivel. It works well as long as you keep everything in line. ie:, your gooseneck in the straight or nearly straight position. If you have to crank the gooseneck to reach windows set in deep frames or with very large sills you will experience some challenges keeping the water flowing as the OP observed. These can be overcome but it takes some practice.

The setup does require using the angled swivel brush adapter supplied by Gardiners to which I have also made a small mod to get the brush to sit at the correct angle on the glass.

I like the gooseneck valve for two reasons. First I like that I don't have to remove my hands from the pole to operate it and second, the ease of maintenance and availability of each part should I need it.

Maintenance wise the only thing I do once in a while is remove the tensioning clamp bolt, pull out the mid section and after cleaning apply a tiny bit of silicon grease to the groove that the clamp fits into.
You can also adjust the tension on both the swivel and valve to suit your preference.

I do think the spigots on either end of the blue tap insert could do with being a little (2-3mm) longer, especially on the top as the less flexible PU hose can come off when swivelling the brush. But, I have overcome this by using all weather PVC hose on top instead, and fixing a small cable tie to it where it connects to the spigot to hold it in place.

swivel_adapter_view_2-_ggp-ang-sw-df_1.jpgbrush 1.jpgbrush 2.jpg
 
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As Den says my daughter and I both use the gooseneck valve coupled with a swivel. It works well as long as you keep everything in line. ie:, your gooseneck in the straight or nearly straight position. If you have to crank the gooseneck to reach windows set in deep frames or with very large sills you will experience some challenges keeping the water flowing as the OP observed. These can be overcome but it takes some practice.
The setup does require using the angled swivel brush adapter supplied by Gardiners to which I have also made a small mod to get the brush to sit at the correct angle on the glass.

View attachment 29228View attachment 29230View attachment 29231

Many thanks @Marko067 finished early today put the first version of the twist neck valve on today with a swivel but It was a right pain think I have an angle swivel somewhere will have to do a bit of diy the weekend and try out your set up.
Would love an alternative to the univalve that is compatible with the swivel.

Is there a big difference between this the first edition and the second version?


Many thanks mate ?
 

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I don't have my v1 anymore. I think I binned it after a couple of months as it kept getting stuck and I ended up busting a section of an SL-X18 one day when it was particularly bad. I held it against the glass too hard whilst trying to get it to unstick when the pole was fully extended. I switched back to a univalve until v2 was released.

The v1 and v2 are like chalk and cheese. The v2 was totally redesigned and has a totally different tensioning method. No need for an allen key to adjust the tension as it can be done by hand. However, the Gardiner widget tool makes it easier. I've had the v2 since it was first introduced and love it.

My daughter took to it real quick even with the swivel. She did try a Univalve for a morning but really didn't like it compared to the twist valve.
 
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Cheers Mark appreciate your input as said going hunt around for the 30 degree angle quicloc put it on the swivel as I’m sure keep pulling the univalve multiple times especially when they start to not work properly as contributed to my dodgy shoulder.

Gonna put a order into Gardiner soon so will order the V2 twist valve nice one ?
 
@Marko067 that set up looks good. I didn't think of using the swivel brush socket. Might give it a try if I've got one somewhere. Funny you say that about using cable ties - I've used the small cable ties you can get on both the univalve and also the slick connects before (when you slide the pole hose over them, I use the little cable ties to secure them together instead of O-clips). Works perfectly well and much easier to remove and replace than an o-clip is, and doesn't risk damaging the plastic barbs of the univalves or slick connects.
@Den I never tried the first version of the twist valve gooseneck, but pleased that @Marko067 reports that the second version is better.
 
@Marko067 that set up looks good. I didn't think of using the swivel brush socket. Might give it a try if I've got one somewhere. Funny you say that about using cable ties - I've used the small cable ties you can get on both the univalve and also the slick connects before (when you slide the pole hose over them, I use the little cable ties to secure them together instead of O-clips). Works perfectly well and much easier to remove and replace than an o-clip is, and doesn't risk damaging the plastic barbs of the univalves or slick connects.
@Den I never tried the first version of the twist valve gooseneck, but pleased that @Marko067 reports that the second version is better.
I use cable ties when I need an o ring for the same reasons
Much better than o rings
 
Took the twist valve to work today on a normal gooseneck old slx18 forgot how **** working was without the swivel slowed me down after half hour reverted back to my extreme 22 with swivel feel like heaven.
When home I changed the quicloc to the swivel 30 degree and packed it out as per your photos @Marko067 put an ultimate brush on the end started to get results it isn’t perfect but was good on most windows I did try to stimulate windows that have narrow access e.g. working from the side did manage it but would improve with practice I’m sure.
I do have a stock of univalves so will use them.
Will take the slx18 tomorrow and use that too see if the change from univalve to twist is on the cards.
@Marko067 I know you said the v2 is superior just one more question please from on to off on the v1 is a small movement is v2 the same as I would like a slightly bigger movement if that makes sense.
 

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I can't remember what the v1 was like in this regard. However, the v2 is very difficult to feather, it's either on or off so I guess the answer is that it's similar to v1.

I would definitely recommend trying the v2 though. It is a much better bit of kit than the original.
 
Don't think there can be anything more simpler than a univalve. Now that I can buy replacement parts for a fiver a piece makes it near impossible to beat. That's the way I see it but I could be wrong. Rain all day here so building up my new 18 pole with univalve and hoseless kit and new brush. Going to add my pads to the ends of my brush, so will post a photo later on.
 
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